G'day,
This trip was a dream realised. I had made several trips across the country before but none starting from the east and none with a family of my own. My kids (3, 4, 6 and 9) are seasoned campers but have not been away from
home for more than a couple of weeks. I prefer to drive than fly so the next trip to
Perth I was determined would be a bush trip with minimum tar.
I go away a fair bit so had the gig ready to expand on to cater for the whole mob for about six weeks, with one in
Perth at my Father's house on the Swan. Ever since the leave was booked in January I had not been able to get excited about it because I knew I “had”to return to work. Something was not right as this not a good state of affairs to be in. Anyway, the last day of work I had a spring in my step and two days later, we were off.
First day was a shorty as we were visiting friends in
Blayney. They have a big old
homestead out of town on about 20 acres. But
Blayney is cold whenever I go there, I preferred to stay indoors out of the wind. We left the next day aiming to drive as far as possible in the direction of
Menindee, although that would not be reached that day. We travelled through magnificent farmland and after visiting the dish at Parkes, we had lunch on the Lachlan and let the kids use up some energy on the playground there.
After Euabalong West we tootled through the nature
reserves and picked up the track following the railway from Matakana. Would be impassable after rain but had dried out nicely for us and was a good track although caution needed due to rail spikes and other scrap iron pieces. This country only had green pickings here and there, very dry and plenty of emus about.
Roto siding would would make a
good camp for a group. We got into Ivanhoe, fuelled up at the cafe where you drive up onto the footpath as the bowsers are set back in a gap between shops. We camped out of town in the bush with a beautiful balmy night.
Off next day we visited the magnificent
Kinchega wool shed, after a Farmers' Union Iced Coffee at
Menindee (now I know why you blokes rave about this stuff!) The shed was a tremendous treat. You can actually smell the sheep still as the lanolin has permeated the timber. Wonderful structure full of
tools from the era and the kids had a ball running about playing hide and seek.
Kinchega NP itself was very scenic although had a slight feeling of desolation due to the dryness of the bush and the blue green algae discovered in the Darling last December.
We tootled onto the Silver City Hwy, aiming to cross the
border at
Loch Lilly. The road to
Loch Lilly is a good sandy track, but after the
border, it hardens up and there are some dangerous washouts that can shear off wheel studs if you are not driving at a sensible speed. We noticed the goat count dropping off as we got further from the
border and we drove side by side with a
young roo for a while, getting some footage we thought we could sell to Qantas :) We bush camped near
Pine Creek.
Off the dirt and onto the black top this day when we passed through
Peterborough,
Orroroo etc. on our way to
Coober Pedy. Make sure you see the
old gum tree (Eucalyptus Camaldulensis) outside of
Orroroo. It has a girth of nearly 11m and worth a look. We visited
Woomera and the wind was so fierce that day, the big planes on display were lifting off their wheels almost.
Coober Pedy necessitated a
camp at facilities so I had chosen Stuart Range but found
the pool that I had told the kids all about, was closed. A couple of days here doing Old Timers' and Faye's Underground
Home (both recommended) and some
fossicking on the public noodling piles! Great fun and rewarding too.
Our next destination was
Eringa Waterhole, one of Sidney Kidman's favourite stopovers on his extensive cattle empire from Qld to
Ceduna. We travelled via the Moon Plain and onto
the Painted Desert. Awesome place
the Painted Desert, I had seen nothing like it before and was captivated by the colours and formations. If anything, it reminded me of the Badlands in Sth Dakota. The track through
Arckaringa Creek had been recently graded so was an easy jaunt through and then onto
Oodnadatta. I had a yarn with Linny there (Adam's wife) as a friend of
mine's vehicle was being “cared for” by Adam with some work in
Adelaide involved. A 14 or 15 tonne Hino I think. I checked on the truck and we had lunch then headed off past the “Angle Pole” to Eringa. The road to
Hamilton station is very good although care needs to be taken with the crests as you approach the
Homestead, the old rule; you need to slow down and keep left. From
Hamilton the track slows down and is quite stony up until Eringa, which I picked out in the distance by the tree line.
What a magic spot We had the place to ourselves and the kids did not get out of the water until around 1900. Roast Lamb in the
camp oven that night, yeah. Awoke the next morning to magnificent sunrise with the birds and photographers' paradise with the changing light and reflections in the water. After looking at the
ruins, we tootled our way to Mt Dare to say G'day and pay our respects to Ian. A
dingo greeted us on the approach. The flag, although at half mast, is only that way because it got stuck and stayed there, but I like to think it is for Ian. Dave and Melissa were driving back from
Alice Springs (Tourism Awards) that day so we did not see them but had a yak with Dale and Renee and got ice blocks for the kids.
From there we pottered out the back over the Finke washout, to Old
Andado. This is a beautiful drive. The first 20km or so was quite boggy and rutted in deep sand with tight bush but very enjoyable and then you come out to be driving between the massive dunes as you approach
Andado. An awesome feeling cresting the last dune as Old
Andado comes into view. The caretakers were in residence so we said g'day and were shown through the old
homestead. Not dust proof indeed as I think every bed had a tarp on it with a considerable amount of red dust accumulated. I loved it. The old windmill was playing the first two notes of “The Last Post”, the only sound apart from the wind that you would hear if you stopped talking. Awesome feeling out there.
Our camp for the night was the
Lambert Centre and it is a
good camp with plenty of space for others to have privacy. A kangaroo stew that night off the fire as usual. I always
cook on the fire if can have one. It is also part of me capping off the day and talking to the bush while sipping on some digestive aid.
We travelled via the old Ghan line the next day to
Chambers Pillar. After crossing the wide, old Finke, it appeared that the first part of the track you were actually on the race track. This was a bit of fun alright, up and down through some boggy red sand trench until you met up with Ghan track itself. A beautiful drive this is, with varied track conditions. Many photographic opportunities with wild flowers and wreckage old and new. It is also worth stopping at the sidings and reading the boards. We fuelled up at Maryvale (the dearest fuel on the whole trip from memory) and bought the kids an ice block.
When I was a
young lad, I found a book in the library with a double page photo of
Chambers Pillar, back when you were allowed to
camp at it's base. Some of you may know this book, “Explore Australia's Great Inland” by Bill Andrews. I had to get to that Pillar. Some years later, I got there and it was indeed a special moment for me, could not take my eyes off it. The track to Maryvale was annoyingly corrugated and it only got worse on the way to the Pillar. The jump up before the Pillar was nowhere near as rough as I had read about, an easy climb in low range and idle down the other side, in a petrol auto with off road trailer in tow. When we arrived at
camp, there was only one spot left, but it was the best spot, away from all the other campers :) I got a fire going to preheat the
camp oven then put some veges and a cut of beef on to slow
cook while we explored. We saved the Pillar climb for the next day.
As with most mornings(at
home too) I got up before the sun and tried to capture the changing light as dawn broke. Such a special place indeed, the spinnie, the dirt, the sky and
the rock formations all painting a picture you could only marvel at.
We made our way out to the Hugh River stock route which was a glorious run with magnificent ghost gums and wedge tails. Aired back up as we met the Stuart Hwy then back on the tar (ho hum) to
Yulara. I was in two minds about this. I knew about Curtain Springs but eventually tipped towards
Yulara in case we caught a sunset at
the rock. We booked in and I was given sticker with a “lawn number” to go to. I got there....”there is no bloody way I am going to
camp there!” The place was covered with little domes and people, my skin started to crawl. I looked around and found a large lawn area next to us, completely of anyone with a bush strip backing it. “Here” I said. The local groundsman turned up after we were set up and we had a yarn about things. I told him I had just come out of the bush with a family of six and there is no way I am going to
camp over there, we are set up here. He was really good about it and said he would just put the sprinklers on half of the area instead. “Great” I said, the kids will have a ball! And they did. They learnt the luxury of water on this trip.
The next day was relatively hot (38/39) so we did a couple of the shorter walks at
the rock, which was enough for the kids anyway. We had ample time to marvel at Uluru, like a sleeping giant it was. I have been to Mt Augustus but this was so different of course with the lack of vegetation. The worn ripples and the stains were captivating. We got back to
camp that arvo, again,
the pool here was closed for maintenance so took the kids around to the resort pool which was boiling with people and a bit hard to handle.
That night, I heard a mob of people near us and thought the school group opposite were setting up a football game or something. I spoke to the leader and found then realised that this was a whole new group just arrived! For the next hour it was “chink chink chink” as about fifty bus tents were put up and the kids knocked about. Two blokes had set up their swags nearby and gone to the pub, only to return and find a whole colony right up against them, what a shock! Too much for me, we got out of there the next morning and headed for
Kata Tjuta and the WA
border. A magnificent walk into
the gorge at
Kata Tjuta, just breath taking in its colour and composition.
Wildflowers in abundance and that beautiful heat coming off the rocks.
The walk took a bit out of the kids so they rested as we picked up the Docker River road and headed to Lassiter's
Cave for lunch. A stunning drive so it is such a pity when you come across the rubbish around the
parking spot there. I just cannot understand the mentality of leaving your rubbish there when you could bring it in without trouble. Disgusting. However, put that behind you and stroll along the short track to the
cave alongside the awesome (but then dry) Hull River. We had just come from where Lassiter was try to reach when he left the
cave on foot, his camels having bolted some weeks before. This was in January too! He had less than two litres of water and covered 55km on the way to
Kata Tjuta before his body gave out and he died. I found a dead camel along the way and my
young son reckoned that was one of Lassiter's, didn't make it either.
Docker River road is reasonably corrugated and sandy but I found that 70kph and around 28/32/28 psi worked
well for us. We crossed the
border into WA and my heart lifted, back in
my home state. I pulled over and made a call to Dad to let him know I was back in WA. All of sudden the country had a different feel about it. We came across a convoy of low loaders taking haulpaks to Mackay, no Doug T in sight though. We stopped that night out the back of Warakurna and had another beautiful
camp oven roast. Nice. Woke up to the sound of a
dingo howling.
The magnificent desert oaks, gums,
wildflowers and fauna continued the next day as we made our way via
Warburton for refueling and visiting the indigenous arts centre there. Passing the northern end of the Connie Sue we had emus running next to our wing mirrors as we were looking for a shady spot off the road for lunch. I picked one at a dry creek and found some
rock holes that I was not aware of from any research I had done, notes or maps etc. There were three with the deepest being about two metres deep, though all dry. A very pretty spot with
wildflowers to delight at.
We passed by Tjukayirla, heading for somewhere near Lake Throssel to
camp. Found some fascinating
rock paintings at Beegull, did not feel like we should
camp there so we found a spot further down the track. I had spotted a bush fire so called it in to the
Laverton coppers. It was a safe enough distance from us and we were in burnt country so pulled up stumps for the day. The next morning, I had intended to take the
Point Sunday track to the Anne Beadell and explore
Yeo Lake Reserve. I probably would be pushing it fuel wise so made the decision to explore the Minnie Creek track off
Point Sunday instead and pick our way through to
Laverton. However, I kept looking behind me....the fire was spotting and arcing up significantly and was now only about 8 km from us, and we were in unburnt country. I looked the tightness of the Minnie Creek track and decided it was too risky. A wind change could see us trapped. Reluctantly, I turned around and headed back to the GCR and through Cosmo into
Laverton.
We spent some time later that day, exploring Gwalia.
Well worth it. A ghost town now but has a wonderful mining museum next to Herbert Hoover's wonderfully restored house. The museum is
well worth visiting indeed and is actually next to the reopened Sons Of Gwalia
mine (I believe Hoover owned,) which is open cut and has about 100 people employed. Around the museum you could see piles old Coleman lanterns which would tickle many blokes fancy. We has lunch in the park opposite the old hotel, no longer trading.
Our destination was
Niagara Dam which we made in good light and had a beaut spot away from the mob who camped below the wall. The kids and I had a ripper swim and walked around the
dam, unintentionally disturbing a few roos who were kicking back around the waterway. Another beaut spot indeed. We left Niagara next day for a bo peep at
Kookynie. The old pub is up for sale. I went and had a quick yarn with the publican who was hanging off a mop in the grand hallways of the old landmark (not 1000 yet so he was not allowed to pour me one.) I asked him where he thought he might move to after seven or eight years here. “Anywhere I don't have to mop.” was the answer! He let me look around then we were off to fossick around the back of
Menzies, making our way down to
Rowles Lagoon or
Ora Banda, would decide later. We did not find anything to rave about, mostly fragments of old bottles although of unusual colour. We had lunch at Ularring
Rock, “a delightful oasis” as described by Ernest Giles, although of course holding freshwater, this was also an important place for the black fella so Giles had a “g'day” from a group of warriors. Fascinating to come across another place this white fella had been So much land he discovered for the whitefella which was of little use to them, “economically poor.” We went off exploring what I thought was a track around
the rock, that would have scratched many a fancy 4wd/camper when it disappeared. I did a reccy on foot, found myself a nice bush banana, but resolved to do a fifty point turn around and back track out.
Now, it was of course Grand Final day. I had it on the wireless, which was good but I as it was already obvious that Geelong were
home, I wanted to see Bomber Thompson hold that cup aloft and give his speech. This of course meant, the
Ora Banda pub. So, we made our way to
Rowles Lagoon, marveling at the size and number of trees in such a semi-arid area. Rowles was of course dry, no need to come back here for
camp anyway as it was a bit tight and several campers there already. I started thinking I was not going to make it to the pub in time so picking some short cuts off the gps I nipped my way through Credo Reserve and got to the pub just as Bomber was walking up
the steps, you beauty. My family walked in shortly after and with the coverage ending, we made our way out the back to the luscious, green grass of the beer gardens. It got wonderfully comfortable out there indeed. We ended up camping just down the
hill from the pub that night, perfect.
Next day we visited Broad Arrow and then the contrasting Super Pit. We parked in town and had a wander about, visiting the
Palace Hotel to see the magnificent mirror that Herbert Hoover had bought for some barmaid he was smitten by. Worth a look this, if you passing that way. We tootled over to Boulder to see if there were any second hand stores open, found one “Theresa's Treasures” and got some treats for the kids and some old work shirts for me.
I wanted to stop at
Coolgardie next to visit the Goldfields museum (the bottle collection in particular) and find Giles's spot at the
cemetery. I highly recommend the museum,
well laid out with good exhibits. I drove past the
cemetery before realising and so backtracked. Then, “where the hell is he then?” as it was a very large plot of land and all divvied up into the different religions. Although he is mentioned on a
plaque outside the
gate, it is not indicated where he is. Anyway, after a lap or so I found him close to
the entrance and gave him my thanks and appreciation.
This was our last night before
Perth, I wanted to
camp at
Baladjie Rock. We made it there in good light and found a beaut spot. We climbed to the top with wonderful district
views over Lake Baladjie. I carry a supply of wood with me (on my draw bar) adding to it during the day, so we were all ready to get a fire prepared when we made
camp. A beaut spot and very clean too. Heaps of
places around
the rock to choose from.
The drive out of the district the next day showed just how poor for rain the area was. Crops were so low and a lot would struggle to make their seed I reckon. We visited
Elachbutting Rock (a quiet, free alternative to
Wave Rock) which also features “Monty's Pass”, a fallen slab of
rock which you can walk under in the dark, hint, keep left) then onto
Beringbooding Rock, one of the largest
rock water catchments in Australia It turned out to be a public holiday but fortunately the
Mukinbudin store was selling fuel tokens so that gave a comfort pill to get to Merrredin.
It was then a tar bash towards
Perth. I could not believe the changes as I approached “The Lakes” turn off to
York. Massive dual carriage way there now.
Well, I guess it is necessary, much safer now indeed, I just was not prepared for it after traveling that way so often before I moved to NSW. Anyway, the skin had started crawling again and we made
camp at Dad's place on the Swan at around 1600. Time to give the rig a rest. She had held up
well over some rough tracks the last 6500 km, no repairs needed, save replacing a worn out tyre with a safer one.
Anyone awake still? :)
hope that was readable!
part 2 to come.....